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So I've noticed in Tandy's website that there are SO many new dyes now. There are wax-based dyes, water-based dyes, antiquing dyes, etc. I've even noticed that my latest bottles of Eco-flo water-based dye now come in this thin liquid rather than the thicker gel-like stuff that I used to get. (At least I hope that's not because I had been buying old bottles all this time. XD)
QUESTION: Have you guys ever used any of the wax-based or antiquing dyes? How do they differ from the water based dyes and are they better for masks?
So what do you guys use? After much trial and error, I've come down to using the following process on my masks:
1. Get all my carving done, then lay down a layer of black or brown Eco-Flo water-based dye, whichever complements the mask. This helps to have an undercoat that isn't flesh toned and with creating an antiquing effect with later layers of acrylics.
2. Paint the colorful details and such in acrylics, either Folkart craft grade or Liquitex heavy body acrylics. I've used soft body as well, which are less creamy and dense than heavy body. It takes more layers to cover with the soft body and definitely more layers with the craft grade too. But I try to keep my acrylic layers thin and consistent when adding more layers by using glazing techniques so that they do not get too thick and encourage cracking.
3. Seal with Liquitex Satin varnish, which I've found to be more flexible and less prone to cracking than less expensive varnishes. I also like to use Satin because it still coats everything but allows the difference between matte and metallic paints to shine through more, which is an important effect when rendering things like butterfly wings in leather, which are more realistic looking if you can tell the difference between those textures. Using Matte varnish will suck the shine right out of your metal effects, so beware!
QUESTION: I've noticed with some of my keychains that I've painted with craft quality acrylics (ie. Folkart paints) that the paint cracks if the item is one that bends a lot. Have you guys ever had any problems with cracking? How did you solve it? I haven't had this problem on masks, but I also haven't seen how my masks have withstood regular use down the road. I suspect masks don't bend or suffer wear as much as keychains, and therefore might be safe from cracking?
PROTIP: I've had some success doing
purposeful crackle effects with Folkart's crackle medium, which you can see on a mask
here.
QUESTION: I've always admired the 3D swirls on Venetian masks. They are created with a paper based paste that is added to the mask with a tube that looks kind of like what cake decorator's use to put icing on cakes. Has anyone figured out a good method of doing this on leather who wants to share? I suspect flexible silicon caulking might be a solution or that '3D Texture Paste' I've seen at the hobby stores.
QUESTION: Do any of you use an airbrush to apply paint? I do it all by hand, which gives some interesting texture to my masks, but makes it incredibly hard to create a solid finish on my masks that doesn't look weathered. If so, what airbrush to you use (or can recommend) to a mask maker?
So just dropping this discussion here so that we can share and learn! Please further discuss in comments.
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